
After visiting the Haleakalā summit, the next two most popular things to do on Maui are cruise the Road to Hana and take one of the many Molokini Crater and Turtle Town snorkeling tours.

We did the Hana tour with an excellent operator called Valley Isle Excursions because every blog I looked at warned that driving all day on the treacherous 68-mile Road to Hāna with its 600+ turns, 50+ one-lane bridges, and occasional rock or mudslides, was an unnecessary ordeal. Hāna itself is all about de-stressing, which is why Maui residents vacation there. Letting someone else do the driving seemed like the best way to see the famous Road to Hāna and the surrounding area. And we definitely made the right call.

Daniel “Jersey Boy” Fisher picked us up at our hotel a little before seven. There were six of us in a climate-controlled van with elevated captain seats and large viewing windows. It was like riding the heavenly bus.

Our first stop was a continental breakfast at the Cafe O’lei at the Plantation, a former sugar cane plantation that has been converted to a coffee farm with an open-air restaurant serving homegrown foods.

After breakfast, we hit the long and winding road to Hāna. And I need to be right up front and admit that it was a very, very long day. That said, there’s no short version. It’s a long drive on a really sketchy road, so you just have to creep along and pray for deliverance. Add in the cool stops along the way, and it’s a 12-hour day on the road. To do it yourself in a rental car would be the epitome of foolishness. Plus, you would miss some of the amazing sites that are off the main drag, you’d have no idea what you were passing, and the white knuckle strain would leave you babbling to yourself in tongues.

After a while, even when we left the driving to an expert, it all became a blur of beauty interspersed with Daniel’s funny stories and interesting historical facts. According to my notes, we stopped at:

* Twin Falls

* Huelo Point Lookout

* The Bamboo Forest

* The Rainbow Eucalyptus Forest

* Wailua Falls

* The coastline along Honomanu Bay & Nuaailua Bay

* The Halfway to Hana banana bread stand

* The Honokalani Black Sand Beach

* Hana Farms

* The historic town of Hana

* Waimea Waterfall

* The historic fishing village of Keanae

* The Hawaiian Green Turtle Beach @ the Ho’okioa Beach Park

We liked every place we stopped, but the pounding surf at the Black Sand Beach and the Keanae waterfront was like watching water wars. And the green turtle beach pile on that at first just resembled a clump of large volcanic stones, left us laughing with joy.

The snorkeling tour was equally incredible! We left the dock at Maalaea Harbor around 7:30, on a three-decker boat called Calypso, heading across the Alalakeike Channel to the long-extinct Molokini volcano where we got to see Maui from a brand new perspective. After a tasty continental breakfast, we jumped into the core of the volcano and snorkeled in waters with 150-foot visibility teeming with 250 species of fish like yellow tang, black triggerfish, and parrotfish. I stopped counting at fifty!


After over an hour of tantalizing fun in the 70-degree water, we all piled back onto the boat and motored over to Turtle Town, right down from Tiger and MJ’s fancy homes, where we swam for another hour with protected Hawaiian green sea turtles and docile reef tip sharks among the captivating underwater coral and lava formations.


We were back at the dock at one and we decided to drive up the south coast to Kapalua. For my money, The Kap is still the best place to live on Maui. It’s got a funky, urban, laidback vibe.

The Kaanipali Coast has been developed beyond recognition. The Royal Kaanapali of my youth has been transformed into a domino line of 8-story hotels by the rocky Pacific with a championship golf course running along their shiny flanks.

That just leaves the woefully lost town of Lahaina which was destroyed by fire last year, killing 101 people. Much of the historic town is closed and they are busily hauling away the charred rubble as they rapidly build a new town on the ridge above.

What happened in Lahaina was a natural disaster fraught with criminal negligence and almost epic incompetence. And in the end, we are left with everybody pointing fingers and the government throwing gobs of money at the failure of virtually everyone in authority.

No matter, the guilt hangs heavy like a funeral shroud over Lahaina and the whole island of Maui. Out of respect, we snapped no pictures as we were passing through. I didn’t feel right even looking where the fire had done its worst. It was like trying not to look at something dead beside the road.

But I have no doubt the “Lahaina Strong” spirit will ultimately prevail and the steady trade winds and the bright Hawaiian sun will soon bring back the Shaka.

What beauty you reveal with your pictures and your words, thank you for sharing an experience I could only dream about.
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